Why Does My Vdo Oil Pressure Gauge Reads 10 Psi With Engine Off
I take most 1000 miles on my freshly rebuilt 1911 engine. I added a VDO Oil Pressure approximate and sensor using an 18" or 20" long paint ball gun hose. I mounted the sending unit on a small DIY "L" bracket on top of the fan housing.
Click to view zipper
I am curious what I should be seeing for oil pressure.
Recently: Engine warm, CHT at 340F, Oil temp reading above 100, I see the oil press approximate dropping very low, maybe below x during acceleration prior to shifting at 3000 to 3500rpm. At a level RPM when cruising OP is 20 to 30. At idle, information technology is college, perhaps 40.
This is the 1st fourth dimension I remember seeing the OP drib that much during dispatch.
Is is normal to run across a pressure drib during acceleration? Didn't I read that that is how these Air-conditioning vw engines run? Is the pressure fluctuation I am seeing normal?
Thanks,
Clark
What oil are yous running and is it at the full mark?
What about the windage tray?
You may be sucking air if the oil is sloshing away from the pickup, or if the windage tray is keeping oil from returning from the heads.
QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Jan 7 2014, 09:14 PM) 
I accept almost g miles on my freshly rebuilt 1911 engine. I added a VDO Oil Pressure level gauge and sensor using an 18" or xx" long paint brawl gun hose. I mounted the sending unit on a small DIY "Fifty" subclass on height of the fan housing.
Click to view attachment
I am curious what I should be seeing for oil pressure.
Recently: Engine warm, CHT at 340F, Oil temp reading in a higher place 100, I come across the oil press judge dropping very low, maybe below 10 during acceleration prior to shifting at 3000 to 3500rpm. At a level RPM when cruising OP is 20 to thirty. At idle, information technology is higher, maybe forty.
This is the 1st time I remember seeing the OP driblet that much during acceleration.
Is is normal to see a pressure level drop during acceleration? Didn't I read that that is how these Air conditioning vw engines run? Is the pressure fluctuation I am seeing normal?
Thanks,
Wow ! I promise your estimate is somehow wired backwards. Pressure level is usually lower at idle and increases with RPM. Rule of thumb is approximately 10psi per 1000 rpm.
Clark
QUOTE(McMark @ Jan 7 2014, 11:28 PM)
What oil are yous running and is it at the total marking?
What nearly the windage tray?
You lot may be sucking air if the oil is sloshing away from the pickup, or if the windage tray is keeping oil from returning from the heads.
Brad Penn 20 Westward 50. But ran about 500 miles on information technology, After changing the intermission in oil. I checked the oil last calendar week and it was actually maybe a 1/4 qt over filled. I call up being careful to put 3.7 qts in and it yet came out extra full.
What is the question on the windage tray...? I did re-install it during the rebuild, re-used the orangish seals.
Dr. 914 suggested that I put a temp. mechanical gauge on to compare. I'll see if Auto-zone rents 1. Tractor supply has some oil filled ones with 1/four" threads for @ $8. So I'll accept to detect some fittings to match.
Did yous line bore the example when you congenital it?
At operating temp I'm running slightly higher up 20psi at idle and effectually 55psi on the freeway. My engine has a little over 2,000 miles on it afterwards a full rebuild. Brad Penn 20/50 oil.
Though running a 2056 I'd await similar values to your 1911. Warmed upwards idle is around 8-10 PSI, cruising at three,000-3,300 RPM pressure is effectually 35-38 PSI, do not see a driblet during acceleration nor take I always experienced such with any car, nor have I seen higher force per unit area at idle than cruise. Concord that your values sound backwards.
Is the sending unit well grounded, normaly the stainless hose provised a basis only with the safe hose you need to brand certain the sending unit case is grounded.
sounds more like wiring problem, crossed wires at cuff mabe. (seems to exist reading bakwards)
I have the aforementioned type of setup and I read ~10-fifteen at oil temp 200deg and Idol and ~35-twoscore at 3000 RPMs.
My motor has well-nigh 52,000 miles on it.
Thanks all. It is warming up to the xl's over the next day or 2. So I volition bulldoze the car again and verify my numbers and the judge operation. Along with some sort of mechanical gauge closer to the port.
The pressure numbers should go upwards with RPM (until it gets high enough that the relief valve opens), and should go downwardly with warmer oil temps.
The beliefs yous are seeing is Not normal. Re-confirm with a mechanical gauge; your gauge and sender may not be "talking" the aforementioned electrically.
If your oil pressure is really doing this, yous need to terminate driving and start disassembling things to figure out what is wrong. Driving with very low oil pressure similar that will wear out everything that tin wearable, pretty quickly. Information technology could also lead to more than catastrophic problems--and that engine looks far too clean to require extra holes punched through it by a thrown rod...
--DD
Crossed wires . Bandy the temp wire with the pressure.
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jan eight 2014, 09:57 AM)
The behavior you lot are seeing is Non normal. Re-confirm with a mechanical gauge; your gauge and sender may not be "talking" the same electrically.
If your oil force per unit area is really doing this, y'all demand to stop driving and outset disassembling things to figure out what is wrong. Driving with very low oil force per unit area like that volition wear out everything that can wear, pretty rapidly.
--DD
My "drinking glass half empty" mentality is making me think the worst. I have seen statements on the forums about the 10 PSI per 1000 RPM, but I also vaguely recall seeing that fluctuations happen while driving, oil sloshing effectually etc...
I've read several posts about track cars taking turns and having idiot lights flicker kinda things.
Existence that I have non had this car on a track or at runway speeds or turns is a worry. The one-half full side is hoping for a judge effect and volition check everything possible.
I'll beginning the machine tonight and video the guess, might accept a mechanical 1 in place too.
What yous are experiencing is exactly why I did this:
And my mech gauge and VDO agreed almost perfectly.
I will remove the mech guess before whatever serious driving.
QUOTE(stugray @ January 8 2014, 12:19 PM)
What you are experiencing is exactly why I did this:
And my mech gauge and VDO agreed almost perfectly.
I will remove the mech gauge before whatever serious driving.
That looks like the Tractor Supply or Northern Tool gauge I constitute last night.
Is information technology? I like the set up, y'all might non accept to remove the estimate...very nice.
They were $6 to $xv and I could get today. Some other website had them with the proper threads, TSC and NT was a 1/4" npt, i need 1/8" or some fittings.
It is a pressure judge for an accusump. I recollect I paid $40 at Top or pegasus.
With some new info for the VERY LOW force per unit area. Turns out the indicate wire on the sender was loose. And so I tightened information technology upwardly and shot this video. I should have commentated, but anyhow 1 of ii shows the gauges with KEY off, and so on, then start and some revving, simply generally cold. I had to shoot 2 videos, 2 of 2 is with the CHT at normal 340-ish. Oil temp never moved.
I end up with over 50 psi at idle and it drops to 20 at 3200. so the very low condition was fixed by tightening the wire.
Take a look and delight comment.
pre-start and common cold running:
warm engine:
I was able to purchase a mechanical guess (gauge from TSC: 1/4" npt, 1/four to ane/eight stuff at Hard disk drive) and fittings to adhere to the pigment ball hose, then I might piece of work on that tonight. simply the comparison will be forthcoming.
Clark
I still doubtable a trouble with the gauge. It should have lower pressure at lower RPMs, and college pressure at college RPMs. Yours is backwards, which either shows something very funky going on within the motor (oil force per unit area control pistons? bearing clearances? other?) or a approximate issue.
--DD
The fashion your pressure gauge pegged high, even before the engine was on makes me experience similar it's operating exactly backwards of how it should. I tin't call back of a mechanical way that this would occur.
Bank check your wiring.
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ January 9 2014, 08:06 PM)
I however suspect a problem with the gauge. It should have lower pressure at lower RPMs, and higher force per unit area at higher RPMs. Yours is backwards, which either shows something very funky going on inside the motor (oil pressure control pistons? bearing clearances? other?) or a gauge result.
--DD
your "hot" and bespeak wires might exist reversed. try swapping the wires on the + and s terminals and see if information technology acts normal and then.
QUOTE(rmdinmd @ Jan 9 2014, 07:28 PM)
your "hot" and betoken wires might be reversed. endeavour swapping the wires on the + and southward terminals and see if it acts normal and then.
I double checked that before the video.... Originally I fabricated a mini wire harness or all 4 gauges... Hot to hot to hot, etc... Same for the illumination lights. From the rheostat to each bulb and a basis wire to each bulb.
But I did do it... wire on + to S and wire on S to + and the gauge does not motility at all.
Did anyone notice when I turned the fundamental on, the force per unit area gauge went to max. Is that normal?
QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Jan 9 2014, 08:53 PM)
Did anyone find when I turned the key on, the pressure approximate went to max. Is that normal?
No. Check your ground.
The oil pressure level gauge must be grounded also, virtually VDO gauges require 3 connections 12 volts, ground and sender connection.
QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Jan ix 2014, 07:23 PM)
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jan 9 2014, 08:06 PM)
I still suspect a problem with the gauge. It should accept lower pressure at lower RPMs, and higher pressure at higher RPMs. Yours is backwards, which either shows something very funky going on within the motor (oil force per unit area control pistons? begetting clearances? other?) or a approximate issue.
--DD
yes, I did check that likewise. Continuity to the - post of the battery anywhere on the braided hose, the sender or the hose clamp holding the sender to the fan and from the fan.
QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Jan 9 2014, 07:55 PM)
QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Jan 9 2014, 08:53 PM)
Did anyone detect when I turned the key on, the pressure gauge went to max. Is that normal?
No. Cheque your ground.
The ground on the gauge?
The gage has 3 wires and ii wires for the light.
Pin+ to 12v
pin- to footing
Pin Due south to sensor
On the sensor there are two terminals one is for the oil lite (labled wk) the other is for the gage.
What model of gage do you accept, and which sensor do you accept?
QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Jan 10 2014, eleven:53 AM)
QUOTE(rmdinmd @ Jan nine 2014, 07:28 PM)
your "hot" and signal wires might be reversed. try swapping the wires on the + and s terminals and see if it acts normal then.
I double checked that before the video.... Originally I made a mini wire harness or all 4 gauges... Hot to hot to hot, etc... Same for the illumination lights. From the rheostat to each bulb and a footing wire to each bulb.
Just I did do it... wire on + to South and wire on S to + and the approximate does not move at all.
Did anyone notice when I turned the key on, the pressure approximate went to max. Is that normal?
You could have sticking pressure regulating valve pistons from pump and main oil gallery.
QUOTE(somd914 @ January 8 2014, 02:58 AM)
Though running a 2056 I'd expect similar values to your 1911. Warmed upwards idle is effectually viii-ten PSI, cruising at 3,000-three,300 RPM pressure is around 35-38 PSI, do not meet a drop during acceleration nor have I ever experienced such with any car, nor have I seen higher pressure at idle than cruise. Agree that your values audio backwards.
What i see exactly. Also 2056.
Try the post-obit exam, Measure out the voltage from the +12 battery to the oil pressure
gauge case. Information technology should stay at 12 volts if it changes the basis is missing to the judge
case. Other wise you may have the wrong combo of sender and gauge.
QUOTE(gunny @ January nine 2014, 08:20 PM)
The gage has 3 wires and 2 wires for the light.
Pin+ to 12v
pin- to ground
Pin S to sensor
On the sensor in that location are 2 terminals ane is for the oil calorie-free (labled wk) the other is for the cuff.
What model of cuff do yous have, and which sensor do you accept?
Yes the wiring is correct. the 12v and the basis go to each gauge that needs it and the South pin wire goes back to the sender.
I should bank check to run across if there are physical #s on each, simply the invoice says they are both the 0-80 devices. 360-006 for the sender and 350-105 for the judge.
Besides the actual part #s, I feel good nigh wiring and grounds at this point. but thing left to exercise is to add the mechanical gauge.
After looking at your video it looks similar you have the terminals reversed on the sending unit. To test connect one side of a light bulb to battery and the other to
one of the post on the oil pressure sender, the light should low-cal bright with the engine off, if it is dim endeavour the other connection on the sender and see if its brilliant
thats the oil light side ,then the other should be the gauge.
Disconnect the wires to he sender first.
Cheque 360-006 sending unit markings WK=alert light, Yard=approximate
QUOTE(904svo @ Jan 9 2014, 09:25 PM)
After looking at your video it looks like you lot accept the terminals reversed on the sending unit. To examination connect 1 side of a light seedling to bombardment and the other to
one of the mail on the oil force per unit area sender, the light should light brilliant with the engine off, if it is dim try the other connection on the sender and see if its bright
thats the oil light side ,then the other should be the gauge.
Disconnect the wires to he sender first.
information technology would have to be labelled incorrectly for me to have it connected incorrectly. Could that happen? I marked the factory stamps for the WK and G with a sharpie.
I vaguely remember trying to switch them months ago and something crazy happened, like the idiot light stayed on.
I now know that this is a gauge or sender or maybe wire trouble, but I am 99% sure that the wires are, at the very least, connected correctly.
Check out the latest video.... check your volume, I practise commentate on this one, and tried to discuss the engine, sorry. 
25psi at idle... 55psi at 3000rpm. give thanks the lord.... I was not going to open up this affair up Once again! 
WOW, no leaks either...YET
"I got a gauge problem."
Yes, you lot do. Simply not an engine problem--WHEW!!
Try this equally a double-check: Run a wire from the housing of the sender to a ground like the crankcase.
I believe that the sender is a variable resistor. Cheque the resistance from the terminal on the sender to footing at idle and at 3K RPM. I think the resistance goes downwards equally the force per unit area goes upwardly? So cheque the resistance for the same conditions on the sender wire at the guess.
Y'all might simply have the wrong gauge for the sender/the wrong sender for the gauge.
--DD
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jan ten 2014, 01:19 AM)
"I got a gauge problem."
Yes, y'all practice. But not an engine problem--WHEW!!
Endeavor this equally a double-check: Run a wire from the housing of the sender to a ground like the crankcase.
I believe that the sender is a variable resistor. Bank check the resistance from the final on the sender to basis at idle and at 3K RPM. I think the resistance goes down as the force per unit area goes upwards? Then check the resistance for the same conditions on the sender wire at the judge.
You might but have the incorrect approximate for the sender/the wrong sender for the gauge.
--DD
Best I can tell, the sender merely has a few markings and they are on the flats of the hose connector. I did come across "0 - v bar" and "0.5 to 0.015" on 2 flats. I presume that is the range and the tolerance.
5 bar is about 73 psi, and I have a 0 - fourscore gauge. Is that how they are matched up?
I'll bank check the resistance this afternoon, thanks for the proposition.
Clark
VDO 360-006 has a risatance range of ten-480 ohms and is five bar sender (0-80 psi)
Well, I spent some time dorsum and along online with a VDO support guy today. Then all this crap was caused by some jack-leg selling me a mis-matched gauge and sender. The sender is rated 10 to 180 ohms, and the judge is looking for 240 to 33 ohms. discover the way the rating is stated. one goes up, i goes downwards.
My estimate going down and showing lower pressure, crusade it is the 240/33 gauge and the sender is sending 10/180. BACKWARDS. 
It makes perfect sense to use matched pairs, only can anyone tell my why are the ohm rating is NOT LISTED with the gauges? Yous just take to know what to buy or sell? This is the existent kicker. How do you know??? 
So now I know I need a 350-104 gauge to go with my 360-006 sender.
thanks to everyone for their input, Once over again, I take soaked in some cognition. And if nothing else, I got to do embedding videos.
Clark
QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Jan x 2014, 03:15 PM)
Well, I spent some time back and forth online with a VDO back up guy today. So all this crap was caused past some jack-leg selling me a mis-matched gauge and sender. The sender is rated 10 to 180 ohms, and the estimate is looking for 240 to 33 ohms. notice the way the rating is stated. ane goes upwards, one goes down.
My judge going down and showing lower pressure, cause it is the 240/33 gauge and the sender is sending ten/180. BACKWARDS.
It makes perfect sense to use matched pairs, but can anyone tell my why are the ohm rating is NOT LISTED with the gauges? Yous just take to know what to buy or sell? This is the existent kicker. How practice you know???
So at present I know I need a 350-104 guess to become with my 360-006 sender.
thanks to everyone for their input, Once more, I have soaked in some cognition. And if nothing else, I got to practice embedding videos.
Clark
Glad that's all information technology is ! Bad on the salesman for selling you a missmatched set.
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